Abrams
411 - Travel to the Past to Witness the Future!
Let me whisk you off to a place that will plunge
you into the past with a vantage point to see the future! Woven
into the loose threads of this historic tapestry are the contributions
of Americans and the great affection for them from express by
the locals that will open your eyes to a newly emerging bright
future for people with a strong US connection. The place is
the great island of Ireland defined as The Republic of Ireland
and Northern Ireland where history is both remembered and in
the making every day. Pick up your passport and come-as-you-are
to join me now on an itinerary that will touch your heart and
capture your imagination in a way that is as unique as the place
itself.
If you've never been to Ireland, it may
be because you have the impression that there is a lot of grass,
beautiful scenery, lovely people, golfing everywhere and pubs
galore but not much that would interest you unless you're
tracing your own family roots. That's probably one of
the greatest misconceptions about the destination which is probably
perpetuated by so many brochures that highlight photos of stretches
of desolate grassy areas backing up to the sea or mountains.
While these photos are charming, many potential visitors looking
at them often determine that there just isn't enough to
see and do to provide the level of excitement, entertainment,
and experiences they seek in a holiday abroad. I'm here
to tell you that Ireland and Northern Ireland present the most
incredible combination of powerful natural beauty, incredible
historic sites, an amazingly warm, welcoming and friendly population
whose history of hardships and struggles makes one ponder how,
as a people, they have emerged with smiles, strong positive
attitudes, faith in the future and preserving spirits, where
music, dance, literature, poetry, art and architecture are inherent
to the Irish experience that touches the heart of every visitor!
Let me take you to some of my favorite places
on the Stephanie Abrams Leprechaun Tour, led by Herself the
Elf, that you need to put on your MUST VISIT list where the
past and the future merge for the travelgirl with an adventurous
spirit! I promise that you will return from your journey enhanced,
enriched, uplifted and inspired, even if you don't play
golf, and planning your next trip to the Emerald Isle before
you've even departed for home!
I'm convinced that one of the reasons that
85% of visitors to Ireland from North America spend their time
in County Dublin and County Cork is that they fly roundtrip
Dublin and only spend a week in Ireland which means they can't
get very far with so much to see and do in those regions. While
my suggestions below include Dublin and its environs, to get
to some of the other places on the west coast and the north
west of Ireland, ask your travel agent about being creative
with your flight plans. Think about fly into Shannon Airport
or Knock International Airport on the west coast of Ireland
and flying home from Belfast or Dublin so that you don't
have to back-track. Also, note that new service from NYC's
JFK Airport and from Boston's Logan International Airport
is now available on Scottish airline Globespan (www.flyglobespan.com)
where low-cost economy and upgraded classes of service are available
economically to Knock Airport which is located midway between
Galway and Donegal on Ireland's west coast putting you
in a great spot to start your journey. You can weave any and
all of the places below into your travels regardless of your
arrival and departure airports and the villages and towns you
find en route between the places listed below are part of the
joy of the discovery of Ireland.
1) Arriving in Shannon:
For 6 Euros(about $8.00) you can take a shuttle bus from
Shannon Airport to the town of Ennis, multiple-time winner of
the Tidiest Towns in Ireland award. Have the driver drop you
at the Temple Gate Hotel, an oasis of warmth and hospitality
where the Maddon family. This is a great spot to base yourself
to visit this town where you'll be in the center of all
the winding streets filled with boutique shops and historic
building. A newly constructed highway has been built that bypasses
so watch carefully for the signage to direct you because you
don't want to miss this Irish storybook town. Temple Gate Hotel,
once a convent, lies in a courtyard behind the main shopping
street so access to town is literally steps away. When you arrive,
have a hearty Irish breakfast or lunch in their Bistro and meander
throught he windy streets of the town. If you enjoyed the film,
“84 Charring Cross Road,” you'll want to visit
Sean Spellisy's Book Store on the main shopping street
in Ennis. Sean has written many books on County Clare so if
you have any question on the area, he's got your answers!
After a good night's sleep, you'll be fresh and
ready to take on the day!
2) Now it's time
to pick up a car: Take off to explore some wonderful
places in the region. I recommend Dooley Car Rentals which is
the only independent car rental company in Ireland, a family-owned
and operated business that treats you like a family member!
They have whatever kind of vehicle you need, have car rental
locations at every airport and offices all over Ireland and
their fees include everything except the gas you'll put in your
car so you won't get slam-dunked by being told one price and
finding out that the rates are dramatically higher when various
surcharges are added in! You can find them at www.dooleycarrentals.com
or reach their US office at 800-331-9301. You'll find Ennis
a convenient spot to stay for 2 or 3 nights while you visit
Limerick, Foynes, Bunratty and the Cliffs of Moher as well so
that you don't need to pack and move each day and here's what
you'll find there: In Limerick a 15 minute drive from Ennis,
visit the Castle of King John in the middle of town which houses
amazing ancient Roman ruins in its lower level. You'll also
find in Limerick a reproduction of the childhood hovel inhabited
by the McCourt family. You'll remember the story of poverty,
hardship and despair from Frank McCourt's book that was made
into the film, "Angela's Ashes."
3) The Foynes Flying
Boat Museum in Foynes, Ireland links the past and present.
You'll find Foynes across an inslet from Shannon Airport and
there is actually a ferry that will take your car across for
this enjoyable way to reach Foynes. But a 30 minute drive around
the shore line will bring you there as well. I'm going to guess
that most travelgirls have no idea where Foynes is nor what
the Flying Boat is but I'll bet a Bailey's on the rocks that
every travelgirl has heard of Irish Coffee! Foynes is where
Irish Coffee was created by the bartender, Joe Sheridan, at
Foynes Airport, which was Shannon Airport before they moved
it a to the north side of the inlet. Since the flyingboat landed
in water, the passengers were often damp and cold on arrival
so Joe fixed them up with "a little something" that
he drank to keep warm on a cold night. The passengers were particularly
pleased, asked Joe if the taste was the result of rich Brazilian
coffee beans and Joe replied, "No, it's Irish Coffee."
The legend of this special flavorful coffee spread and a NYTimes
journalist went to Foynes to find out more about the coffee.
He wrote a story about it on his return which led to the owner
of the Buena Vista Cafe, located at the cable car's turn-around
at Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco, going to Foynes to meet
Joe and offering him an opportunity to work for him. Incredibly,
Irish Coffee has become a household word in the US while the
Flying Boat and Foynes Ireland are still a well-kept secret
that every travelgirl needs to know about!
The Flying Boat, an aircraft built by Boeing in
Seattle in the 1930's and 40's, flew from NYC's Laguardia Airport
to Newfoundland, Canada and then onward to Foynes, Ireland.
At the Foynes Flying Boat Museum, you'll see an actual reproduction
of a Flying Boat installed in a pool of water to give you the
sense of what the experience was like to see the aircraft docked.
This plane whose underbody was built like the hull of a ship
because it could takeoff and land only on water, carried at
maxiumum about 30 people, each having their own sleeping berth,
and each dining on fine linens with crystal, china and silverware
in grand style and you can board the pland, walk around and
see for yourself because great care was taken to amass original
equipment to recreate this experience for you. The actress,
Maureen O'Hara, whose classic film, The Quiet Man, with John
Wayne, was filmed in Ireland, was married to Captain Charles
Blair who was a pilot for the Flying Boat. The aircraft, which
came in various sizes, was operated by American Overseas Airways,
the precursor to American Airlines, British Overseas Airways
Corporation which became British Airways, and flew as the Pan
Am Clipper. You'll find fabulous memorabilia and photos of the
rich and famous you'll recognize who flew into Foynes until
the early 1950's.
Margaret O'Shaughnessy, the travelgirl founder of the Foynes
Flying Boat Museum, who raised 2 million euros to make this
museum a reality, will tell you that, "Anybody who was
ANYBODY who was coming to Europe would have been found on the
manifest list." That included statesmen, politicians, actors
and actresses and celebrities of all varieties. JFK, upon his
graduation from Harvard in 1939, flew on the Flying Boat to
Ireland to visit his grandfather Patrick Kennedy's homestead
which you can visit as well in your travels. It's a bit off
the beaten track but it's worth the time to connect with this
humble abode and feel the uniqueness of the Irish-American connection
and contribution while standing at the gate of this home juxtaposing
in your mind the vision of this little house and the White House
and driving home the message of the proverb, "From little
acorns, big oaks grow."
5) Now it's time for
us to head north so grab your map. Remember: keep the
white line in the road next to your right shoulder as you drive.
That's the key to making sure you're driving on the left side
which becomes a little tricky when you make a turn. White line
next to right shoulder!
First stop in our journey northward along the
west coast of Ireland is at the brand new Visitors Centre at
the Cliffs of Moher. They've done a wonderful job of building
the center and the car parks carved into the backs of the hillsides
so when you approach you only see the grassy rolling hills and
your view is not interrupted by the facilities, the motorcoaches
and cars of visitors. As you enter the Visitors Centre's exhibition
hall, you have the illusion of walking through water to reach
the exhibits that provide insights into this special attraction.
What's a trip without shopping! You'll find Galway
conveniently located on your drive northward. Park your car
in the downtown shopping area and walk and walk and walk through
the open-air mall created by a wide walkway lined with shops.
Amid the boutiques that line the walkway, you'll find the jewelry
store where the famous Irish Claddagh Ring was first created
by the jeweler there. The ring symbolized love, friendship and
loyalty as symbolized by two hands holding a heart which is
topped by a crown. If you can buy your special someone a Claddagh
Ring at this shop, it will make the experience even more memorable.
You'll also find the St. Nicholas Collegiate Church in Galway,
a Protestant Church with a clock steeple. There are clocks on
three sides of the steeple but the fourth side, which faces
the traditionally Catholic community, has no clock which gave
rise to the expression, "They won't even give us the time
of day!"
My recommendation for your splurge is to stay
at Glenlo Abbey in Bushy Park, just two miles from Galway, where
you'll find a championship golf course on property, a restaurant
behind the historic abbey-hotel built into retired train cars
including the one used in the Agatha Chistie film, "Murder
on the Orient Express," and the charm and warmth of the
Bourke family to make sure your expectations are exceeded by
their service and offerings.
So few Americans make their way to the North West
region of Ireland! If you fly roundtrip Dublin and you only
have a week, you probably won't get toCounty Donegal because
you just won't have the time! Lucky for you, you now have three
ways to find yourself closer to the North West on your arrival
into Ireland: 1) you can fly to Belfast and you're about 2 hours
from Donegal; 2) arrive into Shannon and you're about 2 1/2
hours to Donegal; 3) arrive into Ireland West Knock Airport
and you're halfway between Galway and Donegal making it a 45
minute country drive! Incredibly, when you land in Ireland West
Knock Airport, you can pick up your Dooley Car Rental right
there, drive for miles on country roads before you ever encounter
another car and within ten minutes you'll be at your first significant
attraction in Ireland which is the Knock Shrine. This shrine
is the second most important after Lourdes, France, where many
people saw the same vision of angels and the Virgin Mary hovering
above them at the same time. The Knock Shrine, the Knock Folk
Museum depicts the story of 19th Century rural Ireland and tells
the story of the Apparition seen in Knock are worth a visit!
You'll find the coastline of The West and the
North West of Ireland a photographers paradise. The waves are
incredible and are occasionally as high as 40 feet!
Surfing grew up along the coastline and you can take surfing
lessons for beginners of all ages at the Fin McCool Surf School
in Rossnawlagh in County Donegal located on a beautiful stretch
of the North Atlantic coastline and run by its founder, Irish
Surfing Champion, Neil Britton, whose family owns the wonderful
Sandhouse Hotel that dominates a gorgeous stretch of beach in
Rossnawlagh.
This year, County Donegal, is celebrating the
400th anniversary of an event called the Fleeing of the Earls.
Simultaneously, we are celebrating the 400th anniversary of
the founding of the Virginia colony of Jamestown. Unless you
were a history major or have a special interest in Irish and
English history, you're probably not aware that after the Pilgrims
and Puritans left England in search of a location that would
be tolerant of differences in religious doctrines, those who
were left behind were not all happy campers. In Ireland, the
imposition of English law under Oliver Cromwell included execution
of anyone caught teaching Catholic children to read and write,
the taking of lands, homes, castles of the aristocracy of Ireland,
and the replacement in Irish ancestral homes for the most part
with Scotsman, a period referred to as The Plantation Period
in which other people were "planted" on the homesteads
of Irishmen. Not to be daunted, "Hedge School" sprout
up in wooded, sequesterd areas heavily shrouded by hedges, dotting
the country, providing hiding places for teachers determined
to provide educational opportunities to Catholic children, where
they taught their lessons using natural slate slabs for blackboards
and soft stones to write their lessons. (If you'd like to visit
a replica of a Hedge School, check out the Lullymore Heritage
Park and Folk Village in Lullymore, Ireland).
While many left England to form the Jamestown,
Virginia colony in 1607, the Earls of the North West, contacted
the King of Spain, also a Catholic, to ask for refuge and assistance.
One hundred earls and their families, including the O'Donnells,
Maguires, O'Neills and others, made their way from Donegal Castle
in Donegal Town, southward on a march to a port where a ship
would take them to Spain. This year, throughout the summer and
into the fall, there is an event every day in the West and North
West of Ireland to celebrate and commemorate the Fleeing of
the Earls which will culminate in the recreation of the march
from Donegal to the port from which they sailed, complete with
costumed participants, horses and wagons, recreated as they
would have looked in 1607! Ponder this: if the Earls of Ireland
had sailed for America, instead of Spain, they probably would
have taken stone from the earth and built castle homes here
reminiscent of their family homes, establishing an artistocracy
of Irishmen in the New World. Had that happened, the Irish who
arrived in the US during the potato famine, who predominently
came from County Donegal and County Mayo, the hardest hit areas
during that period, would have had a cushion of ensconced extended
family here to ease their assimilation. I highly recommend that
you visit Donegal Castle, the town of Donegal, and then drive
along the coastline just minutes away to experience the power
of the Atlantic's crashing wave at the base the cliffs you'll
find there which are the highest cliffs in Western Europe measuring
twice the height of the Cliffs of Moher! You can experience
the view from the top by driving to the upper parking lot where
you can leave your car and walk for about 45 mintues to the
pinnacle for an even more spectacular view. . .or you can park
the car, have a good look, snap photos of local sheep who will
drop by to visit with you, and drive back down! Ah, County Donegal.
. .something for everybody! And, clearly, it appealled to Sarah
Jessica Parker who bought a house in Donegal to have a quiet
place of beauty in an incredible location.
You're now in the perfect place for moving on
to Derry, Northern Ireland. If you check a map, you'll probably
find the city noted as Londonderry and therein lies a story
worth retelling! Those who live in Protestant neighborhoods
have continued to refer to their town as Londonderry while those
in Catholic neighborhoods call their city Derry. Red,white and
blue striped curbs and poles mark the Protestant sectors while
green, white and orange signify the demarkation of the Catholic
neighborhoods. For an American, this is a painful sight. But
for some years now, peace has worked its wonders on the townspeople
who appreciate the quality of life that peace brings. Going
to Derry City, as it is called on Mayor Councillor Helen Quigley's
business card, plunges the travelgirl into the junction of a
strife-torn past and the promise of an enduring peace continuing
into the future. To bring the history of Derry to life in a
meaningful way, contact City Tours at derrycitytours@aol.com.
If you can get Martin McCrossan, the company's proprietor, to
be your tour guide, ask him to share some of his personal experiences
growing up in Derry. The city is dotted with build-sized murals
depicting the past problems of the city. Originally painted
in black-white-and-shades-of-gray in the style of a photograph,
the photos are now being repainted in full color to symbolize
the current peace and hopes for a sustained peace of the future.
With the historic announcements made in March, 2007 and the
historic public handshake of Bertie Ahern and Ian Paisly confirming
the path to the future of sustained peace in Northern Ireland
and its relationship with the Republic of Ireland, visiting
the city of Derry completes the travelgirl's meaningful understanding
of centuries of hardship past and a bright future for the children
of all who suffered during the past.
Only two miles outsnide of the downtown area of
Derry, you'll find a rustic, countryside area with a three lakes
and ponds, a waterwheel, gardens and a lovely and peaceful hotel
called the Beech Hill House Hotel. You'll find an amazing US
connection there because, before it was purchased by Patsy O'Kane
and her family and turned into a charming hotel that has attracted
such well-known Americans as US Senator Ted Kennedy, former
Preisdent Bill Clinton and US Senator Hillary Rodham Clinton,
the house was the used during WWII from 1942 to 1944 as the
Headquarter for the offiicers of the US Marines who were stationed
in Derry as a strategic point to target the Nazi U-boats that
penetrated the waters around Derry and Northern Ireland. You'll
find a room at Beech Hill House Hotel devoted to US Marine photos,
documents and memorabilia and a monument in the garden opposite
the entrance commemorating the US Marine and their contribution
to the war effort in Ireland.
You can't miss the greatness that abounds as you
travel through Ireland. Everywhere you look, you'll see castles,
manor houses, gardens, ancient ruins, darling towns, cliffs,
mountains, valleys, rivers, golf courses, boat trips to the
islands off the coastlines, pubs with cozy peat-burning fireplaces
and traditional Irish music played by local musicians, museums
filled with ancient books and paintings by famous Irish artists,
and the regions that influenced the writings of great Irish
authors like Oscar Wilde and Yates. But you'll also have the
opportunity to appreciate the work of the 1998 Nobel Peace Prize
Winner, John Hume, a resident of Derry whose civil rights activism
and efforts to find a peaceful solution to the difficulties
in Northern Ireland are the on-going legacy for those who live
in Northern Ireland today. While you feel the ever-enveloping
greatness of the past in your travels through Ireland and Northern
Ireland, you cannot ignore the sense of being in the presence
of greatness in the presence as you experience the intangible
electricity of generated by the people who are living in an
incredible moment in history.
From Derry, you're only 30 minutes from Belfast
where you can visit the museum devoted to the story of the Titanic,
which was built at a Belfast shipyard, and the beautiful Botanical
Gardens across the road from there. Both are on the outskirts
of Belfast which gives you a bit of quietude from the bustling
city. Drive about 30 minutes north of Belfast and you'll be
at Giants Causeway, a MUST VISIT for every travelgirl. Wear
your most comfortable walking shoes and bring your camera with
lots of space for those digital shots you're going to want to
take from every angel and height! You are in for an amazing
experience walking as far as you'd like onto the rock formations
that will remind you of the crystal shapes at the beginning
of the Superman film! Perfectly formed by nature, octagons,
hexagons, pentagons, from 2 feet to 30 feet high, stretching
for miles, inviting you to walk on them, stand, sit, relax and
contemplate the wonders that you'll find in thincredibile place.
If you're looking for a hotel in Belfast that provides an elegant
respite in a quiet street, choose The Merchant Hotel. Once the
Ulster Bank, the hotel's dining room, once the main banking
floor, is as ornate as some of the chateaux you'll find in France!
Marble columns abound topped by carved cherubs draped in gilt
with carved ropes of flowers and fruit bordering the two-strory
high ceiling. Banquets of red velvet complete the feeling you
have of having stepped into a Victorian valentine. The guest
rooms, former bank offices, are stylishly comfortable in the
fashion of a trendy boutique hotel with sumptuous bedding and
marble bathrooms. Much to the management's credit, the hotel,
while barely a year old, gives the impression that it has been
in operation providing elegant accommodations for at least a
century!
From Belfast, complete your inspirational journey
by traveling about 30 minutes to County Down where, in the town
of Downpatrick, you'll find the Saint Patrick Centre, a unique
interactive attraction that tells the story of Patrick in his
own words, taken from his book, The Confession. Done with 21st
century technology and graphics, including an Imax theatre presentation
about Ireland, you'll find the story of Patrick's entry into
Ireland as a slave and his impact on Ireland and the world inspiring.
On the hillside behind the Saint Patrick Centre, you'll find
Down Cathedral where you can visit the gravesite where three
saints are buried: Saint Patrick, St. Brigit, and St. Colomkille.
It is with humility that I received the Honorary Friend of Saint
Patrick award this year on Saint Patrick's Day at the Saint
Patrick Centre. Two people are chosen to receive this award
yearly. This year, I'm proud to share this honor with Ken Livingston,
Mayor of London, England. To continue the sense of history,
tradition and elegance, stay at the Slieve Donard Hotel. My
reaction to seeing the mansion in the film,"Gosford Park,"
was similar to my first impression of the Slieve Donard. The
architecture and majesty of the building is nothing short of
awe inspiring! The hotel backs up to the Royal County Down Golf
Course and they've added an impressive spa to the services they
offer travelers. The hotel lies on the shore of Strangford Lough
at the foot of the Mountains of Mourne completing the idyllic
setting.
At this point, you are a two-hour drive to Dublin!
On the way there, be sure to stop to visit Newgrange, a 5,000
year old structure built into a mound that uniquely rivals Stonehenge
in its importance as a historic structure. Then continue on
to Dublin to complete your historic journey with a visit to
see the Book of Kells at Trinity College, some serious shopping
on Grafton Street, and a stop at Shannighan's Oval Office Bar
for a pint and taste of Americana! You'll find yourself surrounded
by framed pictures and memorabilia related to American presidents
of Irish descent or whose endeavors had a positive impact on
Ireland. You'll find JFK's famous rocking chair in a prominent
spot behind the bar at Shannighan's and a large photo of JFK
sitting in that very rocker placed so that you have the impression
that JFK is sitting in the chair in the bar with you! To get
you ready for your return trip, step into the future with a
stay at Dublin's whimsical hotel right out of Alice in Wonderland,
The Morgan Hotel, located in the happening Temple Bar section
next to the Hard Rock Cafe. For a quick getaway on your day
of departure from Dublin, consider staying outside of Dublin
near the airport to beat the traffic. A good bet for a whimsical
stay is The Beacon Hotel in Sandyford which is in easy access
to Dublin Airport. If you want to keep the flavor of your historic
journey down to the last night, you'll be able to make your
morning flight with an early start if you stay at Fitzpatrick
Castle in County Dublin's Kiliney.
If you have more time to spend in Ireland, head
southward through Waterford, Cork and Killarney and wend your
way back to the west coast to fly home from Shannon or Knock
International Airports. We'll take the ultimate tour of Dublin,
the South and the Midlands of Ireland in another issue! Clearly,
you can't see Ireland in one week or one trip! Each region has
so much to offer that's you'll want to see it indepth before
moving on
• Be sure
to visit my award-winning website, www.sabrams.com
and www.travelingfeet.com
for travel tips, travel news and information and scheduled guests
on my radio shows!>
www.travelgirlinc.com
• July 2007
Gotta Fly Now! sm
Stephanie Abrams
Other TravelGirl Editorials
by Stephanie Abrams:
March 2006, Spring
Time Travel
May 2006 (coming soon)
September 2006, Castle
Hopping
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Stephanie Abrams, recognized as a leading radio
travel expert and as one of the "100 Most Powerful Women in
/travel," is host of the weekly Travel WITH Stephanie Abrams,
heard coast-to-coast on the Business Talk Radio Network and
appears weekly on radio's nationally syndicated, "Traveling
Feet!" Visit Abrams' award-winning website www.sabrams.com
and www.travelingfeet.com.
Stephanie welcomes travelgirls' travel questions at stephanie@sabrams.com.
